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After showing at Paris Fashion Week, it would be easy for designer Estelle Michaelides to present the rose-coloured version of launching her new label, Saint Stella M, into the international market. But then, she wouldn’t be telling the whole truth.
For Michaelides, a 30-year veteran of the industry and founder of independent streetwear label Micky in the Van, showing in Paris was a life’s dream realised. But, she says, the grind and hustle of launching a brand overseas is often missing from the conversation, especially on social media.
From Paris to the Paris end of Collins Street … Estelle Michaelides’ (centre, with models Jennifer Li, left, and Lochie Barnett) label, Saint Stella M, will feature at Melbourne Fashion Week, fresh from its international debut.Credit: Wayne Taylor
“I was one of tens of thousands of designers trying to become visible,” she says. “And you really are invisible. And that was a low for me. I arrived [in Paris] and thought, ‘What am I doing?’ I left my son behind, and I had spent so much of my savings. There were lonely moments as well.”
Certainly, there were plenty of highs. Michaelides’ show, held a stone’s throw from the famed Ritz hotel, was a sell-out, and caught the attention of fashion editor Anna Della Russo (think the Anna Wintour of Italy). The show featured ballerinas performing as Michaelides styled the models in real time, a signature of her Micky in the Van shows, which have regularly featured at the Melbourne Fashion Festival.
Still, she says, the majority of Australian brands – except for, perhaps, Zimmermann, which has shown in Paris since 2022 – have a long way to prove to the rest of the world, especially European buyers, that they have what it takes.
“We have a journey ahead of us [as Australian brands] to showcase what we have to offer and for them to understand our style,” she says.
Since returning to Melbourne two weeks ago, Michaelides has been busy negotiating with buyers, and knows it might take time to prove her new brand has staying power, despite her decades of domestic experience.
On Monday, Michaelides will debut Saint Stella M locally in the more familiar forum of Melbourne Fashion Week. The show at the Regent Theatre will feature performers starring in the musical Moulin Rouge, which is set in Paris. The symbolism isn’t lost on Michaelides, who says, although Paris didn’t deliver her a fairytale ending this time, she’ll keep trying.
“It’s been sobering to come back [home],” she says. “I honestly thought I would go [to Paris] and get more sales than I did, and it would easily open all these doors. But this is only just the beginning.”
Each season, numerous Australian brands try their luck in Paris but only a select few have ever made the official schedule. This season, Christopher Esber joined an elite group, which includes Collette Dinnigan, Romance Was Born and Toni Maticevski. Many more show their ranges through independent shows or via showroom presentations.
Another designer who ventured to Paris this season is Asheema Razak, whose label Ashaalia is just nine months old. Razak was invited to show eight looks – her entire range – in an off-schedule group show called Flying Solo.
“I never thought in my first year that opportunity would even come to us,” she says.
Razak, who’s also based in Melbourne, says she was thrilled with the reception for Ashaalia, which celebrates her Indian and Pakistani heritage through the use of traditional hand-beading. She started the label, which is named after her daughter, after a 20-year career in the pharmaceutical industry.
“There are so many new brands out there, [so] having featured on the runway and showed really helps give you that leverage when you’re out there [selling],” she says.
Flying start … models wear Ashaalia in the Flying Solo runway during Paris Fashion Week.
Razak says the timing of the fashion weeks in Australia meant it made more sense to stage her inaugural runway overseas, but plans to show locally in 2024. Her goal: a solo Ashaalia show at Australian Fashion Week.
“In my heart, I want to have a full collection for our Australian [runway]. I don’t want to have to share the runway with other brands. We can now say we’ve been to Paris Fashion Week. It can only be a good thing for us.”
Melbourne Fashion Week is on October 23-29, mfw.melbourne.vic.gov.au.
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