London has been scorching and we’ve all been longing for a nice cool swim.
But the local pools and lidos have been fully booked; the nearest beaches are miles away, you couldn’t park even if you got close to one and they’ve all been all jam-packed anyhow.
I’ve found what I believe is the perfect solution, though – a great big stretch of water right on the capital’s doorstep, AKA the River Thames! Except, when I tell people I often swim in it, they look aghast.
‘What about the sewage?’ they say, wrinkling up their noses. ‘And the boats? And Weil’s Disease?’ they add – a nasty illness you can catch from the urine of infected rats.
My partner, who wouldn’t venture in the Thames for love nor money, even likes to point out that sewage often spills into the river during heavy rain as it overwhelms the capital’s out-dated sewage system.
Then there’s the hazard of surface water run-off, sometimes from agricultural land, which may be contaminated with pollutants, such as fertilisers and pesticides. Not to mention boat traffic, duck poo, submerged rubbish and, in certain places, powerful tides.
I understand these concerns and why Thames swimming isn’t for everyone but, for me, the sheer joy of plunging in and swimming wild makes all the risks worthwhile.
There’s something wonderfully freeing about not having to book, pay, queue or jostle with others in overcrowded changing rooms. You can just leave your clothes and towel on the riverbank and jump right in.
I love the look and feel of the cold water, and the fact it doesn’t smell of chlorine. It’s fun to swim past reeds, ducks, swans and even the occasional heron.
Sometimes I’ll grab an overhanging branch while I take a look around, or float on my back with my eyes closed for a few moments – and just be.
As my body and mind relax, the troubles of the day seem to melt away and I’m left feeling calm and at peace with the world. For me, it’s a bit like meditating and it’s great for both my mental health and wellbeing.
I try to pick times when the river’s less busy, either early morning or late afternoon. I don’t swim far enough out to be a nuisance to boats, but I find most river users are pretty laid-back and don’t mind sharing their space with me.
I do duck my head under, but I’m careful not to swallow the water and, fortunately, I’ve never become ill. I also watch out for passing traffic and so far, I’ve had no near-misses.
Sometimes people stop and ask me what the water’s like, wondering if they dare venture in. Occasionally they’ll just stand and stare. I might look a bit odd but to be honest, there are more Thames swimmers in my patch of London these days, so I’m not such an unusual sight.
Few Londoners seem to realise that, though The Port of London Authority (PLA) doesn’t encourage Thames swimming, it is allowed in a particular stretch upriver of Putney Bridge through to Teddington, where the water quality is better.
I’ve enjoyed dips in this area ever since I was a child growing up in Kingston Upon Thames, where I still live. On hot days, I’d often cycle with my two siblings to a spot close to Teddington Lock, where there’s a small beach with a gentle slope into the water.
Even back then, we knew not to swim too far from the shore, to watch out for boats and not to drink the water. None of us ever got upset tummies.
Now, this particular spot’s become so popular in heat waves that I tend to avoid it. One of my favourite places these days is at Petersham Meadows, close to Ham House in Richmond. There’s free parking and a gravel slipway, perfect for swimming and boating.
My 90-year-old mother and her partner, who’s 95, have even been known to bathe here, though nowadays they need a hand getting in and out.
Albany Reach, a quiet meadow overlooking Hampton Court Palace, is another beautiful wild swimming location. Here, the water looks clear and feels wonderfully fresh and inviting.
Further afield, I also like a small river beach near Desborough Island, Shepperton, and a pretty place called Dumsey Meadow, near Chertsey Bridge, where cattle still graze at certain times of year. All are easily accessible by car or public transport.
The Thames has always been a playground for leisure activities, but since Covid struck and we entered our first lockdown, I’ve noticed far more people using it for recreational purposes.
Now, I often walk past a group of six or seven plucky middle-aged men and women who swim together near Teddington most days throughout the year.
In winter, they wear colourful woolly hats, gloves and swim shoes, but no wetsuits. Some use bright orange tow-floats, so they’re easier to spot. As you can imagine, they also attract quite a lot of attention from passers by!
So far I’ve always been a fair weather bather and just watching them on cold days makes me shiver, but they seem very jolly and I admire their spirit. Maybe this Autumn I’ll follow their lead.
It’s great to know that I can pack up my cossie, grab a flask, cycle to my favourite spot and plunge in whenever I’m feeling stressed, or just need a quiet moment. I always come out of the water feeling happier and more alive.
The Thames is such a great resource, it seems a shame more people don’t feel safe or brave enough to swim in it, particularly when it’s roasting outside.
If you’re tempted, so long as you’re a reasonably strong, confident swimmer, here’s my advice: choose a safe spot where swimming’s allowed, take a friend, watch out for boats, don’t go too far from the bank, don’t swallow the water – and just go for it!
With our summers getting hotter, isn’t it about time the Environment Agency and Thames Water increased their efforts to clean the water up, so that we can all enjoy worry-free, free swimming in one of the world’s most iconic rivers?
Emma Burstall’s latest novel, The House on Rockaway Beach, is published in ebook, audiobook and hardback (£20) by Aria on 1 September, 2022
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