BATTLING acne or noticing your first few wrinkles can send many of us on a Googling frenzy, trying to figure out how to 'cure' these skin afflictions quick.
From foods that supposedly aggravate spots to collagen supplements that can miraculously reverse signs of ageing, it can be hard to sift through what information is actually valid.
Appearing on ZOE's Science and Nutrition podcast, Dr Justine Kluk – a consultant dermatologist with a specialist interest in acne – said there is actually a link between what we eat the the state of our skin.
But she warned that many people can embark on unhealthy diets due to inaccurate information gleaned from the internet.
We usually associate acne with teenage years, but Justine said it's common to experience it into adulthood and it's often tied to hormonal changes.
It's pretty common for women in their early to mid twenties to suffer from it, but those in their thirties, forties and women going through menopause can see new spots popping up.
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Whatever the age, people dealing with breakouts can often sustain a blow to their confidence and self esteem but are at a loss for how to care for their skin.
Justine discussed some foods that could be leading to acne, what to have instead, as well as touching upon how diet is tied to skin ageing.
Are there certain foods that can make acne worse?
She observed that many people will embark on a so-called elimination diet, after having read somewhere that certain foods can bring on acne.
"It's one of the most worrying things I see in clinic," Justine said, saying that some patients even develop disordered eating after "misinterpreting information about food and acne".
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But the dermatologist did add that "diets with high glycemic content are associated with increased severity of acne" – these tend to refined carbohydrate foods, such as white bread and pasta and potatoes, that trigger a rapid spike in blood sugar and the release of hormones.
"What basically underlies acne is an increase in oil production in the skin and blockage of the pores where the oil is supposed to come out of the come out onto the surface of the skin by dead skin cells," which bacteria then feeds on and triggers inflammation.
Androgen hormones such as testosterone can increase oil production and pore-clogging, Justine added.
"We can connect food to this because [by eating] these sugary foods and these very refined carbs, your blood sugar rises, then your insulin rises and insulin like growth factor rises and this increases these androgen hormones," she explained.
Sugar and dairy may also have something do to with new spots appearing on your face, Justine went on.
"People often will see an association with eating dairy and their skin getting worse," with studies showing that Western populations were particularly affected.
But products like milk might aggravate your spots more than other dairy-based foods like cheese, the dermatologist noted.
Simple food swaps to manage acne
There are ways to reduce your intake of refined carbohydrates without cutting carbs out of your diet altogether, Justine noted.
"You can just switch having your white bread, white rice, or white pasta with whole meal versions of that. You don't have to change your lifestyle or any of the other things that you do."
The dermatologist also suggested adding healthy proteins and fats as well as fibre to your diet to reduce your blood sugar response to foods.
But she stressed that 'life is about balance', and that it's perfectly OK to enjoy a treat.
Simple acne skincare tips
Though mild acne can be easily managed at home, Justine urged anyone with severe skin problems to seek specialist help to treat it safely and effectively, from a GP or dermatologist.
She shared a few simple tips for managing the skin condition at home.
- Don't skip the moisturiser, as it can reinforce your skin barrier and make it "a happier, healthier place" – choose ones that are non-comedogenic so they don't block your pores
- Use topical vitamin A, retinol and retinoids to reduce pore clogging and inflammation
- Wash your skin with a gentle cleanser twice a day
- Only use one product with active ingredients in your skincare routine and introduce it slowly
Can your diet slow skin ageing?
When it came to ageing, Justine said we can't reverse signs of it but we might be able to slow it down.
Sun exposure is one of the major things that causes our skin to sag and wrinkle over time, according to the dermatologist, so wearing sun cream and a hat consistently can be helpful.
As for whether collagen supplements actually work, Justine said "the jury is still out".
"We know that we tend to absorb these nutrients better when we get them in food, so do we really need to take a collagen supplement?" the dermatologist asked her hosts.
Eating a Mediterranean style diet is much cheaper and more accessible that popping collagen supplements, whose effects don't last after you stop taking them, Justine argued.
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This means digging into meals that are rich in vegetables, herbs, fruits, nuts, beans and whole grains, with smaller amounts of dairy, meat, fish and eggs.
And adding retinol to your skincare routine could actually help boost collagen, she went on, as can vitamin C.
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