When Beyonce sang about putting a ring on it back in 2008, the Grammy record holder was referring to the fourth digit but approved cover versions require an update. The pinky finger is growing in popularity with signet rings getting a style refresh in time for Valentine’s Day.
Once the domain of Mad Men, the mafia and aristocrats, the appeal of the pinky has spread to those looking to express love in new places.
Jewellery designer Sarah Munro, co-founder of Sarah & Sebastian, wearing the brand’s signature pinky rings,Credit:Janie Barrett
“The first pinky ring we launched was in 2011 and was based on a version from the ’70s worn by my mum,” says Sarah Munro, co-founder of Australian jewellery label Sarah & Sebastian. “Now we are seeing clients requesting more embellished versions. We are even seeing customers buy them as engagement rings.”
Melbourne designer Sener Besim is also benefitting from the style shift away from gold shields on the little finger of royals such as King Charles to modern, embellished interpretations, like those seen on the pinky of Meghan, Duchess of Sussex.
“The pinky ring has been a popular design for us, but we did start to see an increase in pinky pieces towards the end of last year,” Besim says. “The pinky ring holds the potential for a place in any wardrobe, with historical significance rooted in such a range of meanings; tradition, affiliation, profession, and, of course, fashion.”
While the wearing of pinky rings as expressions of love seems like a new trend, multidisciplinary artist Luke John Matthew Arnold, who lectures on jewellery as a form of communication at Sydney College of the Arts, can trace its symbolism to covert affairs of the heart.
Grammy winner Harry Styles and Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, are both fans of the pinky ring.Credit:Getty
“The signet ring has had many lives but if you go down the rainbow path you can see that it was a popular piece of jewellery with lesbians as a safe way of showing a shared commitment,” Arnold says.
Before the arrival of dating apps such as Her and Tinder, a ring on the pinky finger was a way for lesbians to publicly signal their sexuality, particularly during the ’50s and ’60s.
“Today it just exists as a beautiful thing, an adornment. It doesn’t need to send a message. With gender fluidity, it can be worn by men and women. It doesn’t have to mean anything other than the fact it’s pretty.”
The poster person for gender fluidity in fashion, Harry Styles, paired his crystal-embellished, multicoloured one-piece nod to Freddie Mercury at the Grammys with an array of rings, including heavily embellished pinky pieces.
On television the style has been worn by the breakout style star of Emily in Paris Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu. Her character Sylvie wears a pinky ring in almost every episode of season three.
“I love the way this traditionally masculine style has become completely unisex,” says Queensland-based jeweller Lucy Folk. “This is an aesthetic choice first but people don’t buy jewellery to be only worn at certain occasions anymore. People want to live in their jewellery every day and signet rings are robust enough to be worn in this way.”
“Traditional styles will always be there but people are looking for ways to weave their own narratives into this traditional concept, giving every ring its unique identity. The most successful signet rings have one foot in tradition and the other in a sentimental, personal place.”
Folk produces fine pinky rings with diamond embellishments, along with a hand-carved carnelian version with Greek decorations. Besin uses black diamonds, malachite and onyx for his rings along with pink opals.
The opal has become one of Sarah & Sebastian’s most popular stones for pinky rings.
“Everyone loves an opal and we have reclaimed it, along with the pinky ring,” Munro says. “The most important thing, especially if you are giving a ring for a gift, is to make it personal. They are small rings but they can hold a lot of meaning.”
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