They’re the new trend in cocktails – wacky savoury gins but could you bear to say cheers to a CHEESE G&T?
- Fancy a gin made with Parmesan? Or how about olives with a dash of salt?
- Decidedly unconventional ‘savoury gins’ are hitting the shelves this autumn
- They work well for those of us who prefer a bitter or salty edge to our cocktails
Fancy a gin made with Parmesan? Or seaweed? Or how about Spanish olives with a dash of salt?
Yes, really — a host of decidedly unconventional ‘savoury gins’ are hitting the shelves this autumn, including one made with parsnips from former Top Gear nerd James May.
They work well for those of us who prefer a bitter or salty edge to our cocktails, and are perfectly suited for supping indoors as the nights draw in. Here’s my guide to the wackiest and best . . .
SUBTLE SEAWEED
Da Mhile Welsh Seaweed Gin, 70cl, £36.37, masterofmalt.com or direct from damhile.co.uk
Da Mhile Welsh Seaweed Gin, 70cl, £36.37, masterofmalt.com or direct from damhile.co.uk
WHAT IS IT? Made at a family-run organic farm in Ceredigion, West Wales, this offbeat gin uses hand-foraged seaweed and other sea vegetables to give a salty, funky edge.
TASTE: Gentle, super smooth and fresh with notes of mint. The flavour is less that of actual seaweed and more an evocation of being by the sea.
VERDICT: Subtle and elegant, perfect neat with oysters. 4.5/5
PUNCHY PARMESAN
Audemus Umami Gin, £34.95, 50cl, thewhiskyexchange.com
Audemus Umami Gin, £34.95, 50cl, thewhiskyexchange.com
WHAT IS IT? Launched this summer, its key ingredient is a 30-month-old Parmesan, which is steeped in alcohol. The full list of ingredients is a secret, but includes Italian capers.
TASTE: You get a proper briny, salty, ripe twang when drinking this which evokes Parmesan if not strictly tasting of it. A connoisseurs’ gin that will appeal to the gastronomically curious.
VERDICT: It makes for a marvellous Martini with an olive garnish. Serve with cheese! 5/5
SPICY PARSNIP
James May gin, 70cl, £39, jamesgin.com
James May gin, 70cl, £39, jamesgin.com
WHAT IS IT? Like every canny celebrity, former Top Gear presenter James May, has created his own cult booze. The difference here is he’s used Asian parsnips, plus coriander, cardamom, grains of paradise, ginger and fenugreek. The minimalist label is slightly medical, with a nod to Haynes car manuals.
TASTE: Understated, with just a hint of Asian parsnip.
VERDICT: It has an alluring cardamom and pepper aroma, a robust hit of alcohol and plenty of earthy, nutty flavour, yet it didn’t do the botanicals justice. I was expecting more of a kick and a thrill. 2.5/5
Gin Mare, 70cl, £38.25, masterofmalt.com
WHAT IS IT? One of the first savoury gins, Gin Mare’s botanicals read like a Mediterranean cookbook: Catalan Arbequina olives, Greek rosemary, Italian basil and Turkish thyme.
The distillery is within a former chapel in a fishing village outside Barcelona. It comes in a desirable blue bottle with a wave effect at the base.
TASTE: Clean and herbaceous with a hint of balsamic. The basil and thyme notes lead into peppery olive and resinous juniper with a good savoury finish.
VERDICT: Drink its latest spirit, Gin Mare Capri, (£42.50, 70cl, masterofmalt.com), which has added notes of lemon and bergamot, on ice with a nice tonic, a sprig of rosemary and a lemon slice. It would partner ratatouille and roast chicken nicely. 4.5/5
SALTY SPIRIT
Portobello Road Savoury, 70cl, £35, portobelloroadgin.com
Portobello Road Savoury, 70cl, £35, portobelloroadgin.com
WHAT IS IT? The Notting Hill distillery adds a pinch of sea salt to give this gin a hint of the coast, alongside Calabrian bergamot and green olives from Seville. The name is a nod to a nickname for illicit gin sold by street traders in 19th-century London.
TASTE: Earthy and robust, with a lingering dry finish and a subtle saltiness that leaves you wanting more. Perfect for a ‘let’s prolong the holiday’ early evening G&T and to serve with tapas.
VERDICT: Makes a fabulous Martini using fino sherry and finished with a Gordal olive and a little brine. 4/5.
MACADAMIA MANIA
Four Pillars Olive Leaf Gin, £35, 70cl, masterofmalt.com
Four Pillars Olive Leaf Gin, £35, 70cl, masterofmalt.com
WHAT IS IT? Made by Australia’s best-known experimental gin distillery using extra-virgin olive oil and leaves from three different olive varieties, plus seven Australian botanicals including macadamia and rosemary.
TASTE: A complex aroma, akin to sake, with a subtle olive taste.
VERDICT: I’d drink it on its own or as a sophisticated G&T with an orange slice. Goes well with grilled fish. 5/5
ASIAN AROMATICS
Tarsier Southeast Asian Dry, 70cl, £34.95, tarsierspirit.com
Tarsier Southeast Asian Dry, 70cl, £34.95, tarsierspirit.com
WHAT IS IT? Signature botanicals of calamansi, galangal, Thai sweet basil and kampot pepper were chosen to partner Southeast Asian food. The name Tarsier refers to the tiny endangered primates — 10 per cent of profits from sales go to the Philippine Tarsier Foundation.
TASTE: Enticingly aromatic with a Southeast Asian character.
VERDICT: Serve with ginger ale and ginger or lime slices. 4.5/5
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