Written by Fiona Ward
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Considering a bob but not sure where to start? Three leading hairstylists are here to help.
Wondering if you’re brave enough to try a French bob? Or perhaps the sharp and straight 90s bob has tempted you? Well, you’re not alone – the bob is one of the most requested haircuts of 2022, and the likes of Florence Pugh, Lucy Hale and Jourdan Dunn all agree.
But making the decision to have a bob haircut can be a nerve-wracking one, whether you’re going from super-long to short or short to slightly shorter. The key to getting your bob just right is open communication with your hairdresser. Fortunately, Stylist has pulled together advice from some of the best hairstylists out there, so you know what to expect before the big chop.
What to consider before your bob haircut appointment
Leading hairdresser and Evo international creative director and presenter Tom Smith has multiple bob styles scattered across his Instagram page and has already declared the ‘curtain cut’ (a shoulder-grazing one-length style) and the ‘Botticelli bob’ as big trends this year.
For Smith, the key thing to remember is that a bob does not always mean super-short, you can absolutely make the style your own. “I define a bob length as sitting anywhere between the top of the shoulder to the hollow of the cheekbone,” he says. “Length is determined by facial features and general proportions of height and body size. Hair texture and density play a role in determining the length due to its implications on the silhouette of the hair, too.”
He clarifies: “The wavier or curlier the hair, the more ‘3D’ the bob will become. There are techniques we can use to slim the silhouette of the hair, but the more texture or natural volume it has, the bigger it will be. A bob is a great way to give the appearance of thickness in finer or flatter hair types, too.”
Before you go for the chop, consider how you usually like to wear your hair. “Tell your hairdresser how you typically style your hair on a daily and weekly basis,” Smith advises. “If you like to tie your hair up, the length is a big consideration. Sometimes I recommend a half-up style if someone wants a shorter bob – the length around the face and top can be tied back, leaving the bob shape at the nape which can look quite stylish.”
What to expect during your bob haircut
Melissa Timperley, the owner of her eponymous Manchester salon and the proud wearer of a chic French bob herself, is something of an expert on the style.
It’s normal to feel a little nervous before your cut, she says. “It is of course going to be nerve-wracking, but when you trust your hair stylist, it’s a team effort. If the hair is long, we usually cut the excess hair off when it’s dry, before shampooing. This is probably the scariest bit. Once that’s done you feel so light and chic already – so the rest of the haircut feels fabulous.”
When talking to your stylist about the cut itself, using visual guides is helpful. “Talk about where you imagine your bob sitting – point to your chin length, lip length, under your jaw,” Timperley advises. “Ask your hairdresser how the cut will affect styling it on a day-to-day basis.”
As ever, the cut will depend on the texture of the hair, and each stylist will tailor the look depending – this is particularly important when talking about layers. “Layers will depend on the thickness and texture of hair and the overall desired result,” says Timperley. “You may bring in a picture of a layered bob but your stylist may need to cut it all one length or graduate it to achieve the same result on different textures of hair.”
How to style your bob at home after your haircut
It’s important to ask questions about styling after any haircut – but bobs are pretty versatile, so be sure to ask your stylist about the different looks you can achieve.
For session stylist and salon owner Adam Reed, it’s important to keep the hair healthy and shiny, no matter how you plan to style it.
“Depending on the finish and look you’re going for, using an oil and a primer is absolutely key as it gives you a great base and foundation to work from, while also giving you the all-important shine and gloss,” he says. He favours The Good Habit Hybrid Oil, £14, and The Prologue Hair Primer, £13, from his own product range, Arkive Headcare.
For a kink or a bend (aka a straight-ish, wavy bob), Reed advises prepping with mousse and setting the hair with hairspray after using a tong or a straightener to create the texture. “But if you’re going super sleek and you want that absolutely beautiful finish on the hair, fully blow-dry the hair smooth with a bristle brush, and press hair down with an iron. I’d always recommend putting some hairspray onto your fingers and sweeping it over the hair once styled, to get rid of any flyaways and unwanted fuzz.”
Those with natural curls should prep the hair with leave-in products that help to define the texture and add gentle hold – Reed opts for his primer, oil and blow-dry spray.
“Gently dry with the bowl of a diffuser, lightly cupping the hair to leave a really nice, defined finish,” he says. “I always add a little bit of my The Mastery Hairspray, £13, to the ends.”
Main image: Getty
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